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(NPS photo) |
As
lighthouses go, the sentinel on Georgia’s Cockspur Island is diminutive,
measuring only 46 feet from base to the top of its cupola.
But don’t
underestimate this structure, which has endured high tides, hurricanes, waves
from ever-growing container ships, careless individuals, vandals and – for a
deafening 30 hours – the bombardment of nearby Fort Pulaski during the Civil
War.
The Cockspur
light’s masonry base was built in the shape of a ship’s prow to deflect the
forces that have worn away at her, consuming much of the small island that
serves as its foundation. And while her light was extinguished more than a
century ago, the beloved beacon exudes charm for boaters and those making the
trek on U.S. 80 from Savannah to Tybee Island.
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Robert Knox Sneden map (Library of Congress) |
Remarkably,
the lighthouse suffered little or no damage during the April 10, 1862, Union
bombardment of Fort Pulaski. Crews manning 36 guns on 11 batteries stretching
along the western end of Tybee Island likely used the lighthouse for sighting
as they pounded away at the fort located about 1 mile beyond.
“Not much
point to aiming at the lighthouse,” said Charlie Crawford, who as president of
the Georgia Battlefields Association has led tours of Civil War sites in the
Savannah area. “If the Federals could capture the port, the lighthouse would be
useful.”
While the
lighthouse weathered the war and helped mariners for a couple more generations,
age and exposure to elements have taken a toll.
A new round of maintenance and restoration is expected to begin this Monday (Dec. 7).
Ferrelle said he expects professionals and volunteers to repoint and clean interior bricks, put in a new door and seal
glass and other fittings. Work on weakened wrought-iron railing will take place later.
Fort Pulaski’s Joel Cadoff said the friends group raised
$25,000 for lighthouse protection through a Centennial Challenge Grant and the
NPS matched it. A full restoration of the lighthouse would require much more
funding.
The help
can’t come soon enough for the Cockspur Island Lighthouse and island, which
were recently closed to the public. NPS officials cited the precarious
ecological situation and increased vandalism.
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Fort Pulaski is a mile beyond the lighthouse (NPS) |
In 2013, the
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers placed boulders and rip-rap on the island to
counter tides and higher shipping waves. The stabilization project also helped
establish a base for oyster bed restoration, with the distribution of about three
tons of oyster shells.
“If left alone, they will reproduce and the stack will form
new oysters,” said Ferrelle. “People have been trampling on the oysters we left
there.”
Ferrelle, who
operates a boat-based tour company, said before the closure people were seen
hanging over the sides or sitting on top of the cupola.
Some people
who paddled up to the island at low tide disregarded signs and went inside. A
fall from the top, Ferrelle said, would have a single consequence: “They won’t
get hurt. They’ll get dead.”
Eventually,
officials would like to see the lighthouse and island reopen to visitors. The
goal, Ferrelle said, is to “maintain
her as a historic place and a treasure. It’s not just a toy you go out and goof
around with.”
War comes to coastal Savannah
The South
Channel of the Savannah River was the prime gateway to Savannah in its early
years. One brick tower, used as a landmark, was built on Cockspur Island
between 1837 and 1839. A major upgrade came about a decade later when an
illuminated station was built. That tower has a focal plane 25 feet above sea
level, according to the NPS.
A hurricane
leveled the lighthouse in 1854 and a new tower was rebuilt the next year. The
dawn of the Civil War brought a temporary extinguishment of its light.
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Remnants of Battery Halleck (Picket photo) |
Then the war
itself came to Cockspur Island, home to Fort Pulaski.
The Union’s
strategy was to put a chokehold on Southern commerce by controlling ports and
coastal areas, including this area next to the Atlantic Ocean. Federal soldiers
landed at Tybee Island and set about preparing for an attack on Fort Pulaski, a
brick guardian just a few miles to the west.
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Col. Olmsted |
Capt. Quincy A. Gillmore, a
Federal engineer officer, began the bombardment on April 10, 1862, after Col.
Charles H. Olmstead refused to surrender.
“The Federal
batteries were 1,500 to 4,000 yards away from the fort,” Crawford said. “Part
of Battery Halleck is still discernible on the south side of the road. Had the
Federals chosen to aim at the lighthouse, the closest batteries would have been
about 700 yards from it.”
The Confederate
garrison at Fort Pulaski would learn first-hand about advances in technology.
“When Fort
Pulaski was built (1830s, with Robert E. Lee as one of the principal
engineers), the rifled gun was not around, so thick masonry walls were the
best type of fortification, and the distance to Tybee Island would prevent any
1830s-era gun from getting close enough to do significant damage,” said
Crawford. “By 1862, the James Rifles blasted apart the walls relatively quickly.”
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Rifled shot pulverized Fort Pulaski (Picket photo) |
The situation steadily grew
worse.
“When the
breach on the southeast bastion allowed the Federals to shoot across the parade
ground and start bouncing shells off the temporary wood wall in front of the
powder magazine, Olmsted knew that a potentially catastrophic explosion
was likely,” said Crawford. He surrendered on April 11.
Pulaski
remained in Federal hands and the city fell in December 1864 in the closing
months of the conflict. About a year after the war’s end, on April 25, 1866,
the beacon was relit and painted white for continued use as an navigational
aid.
A storm in
1881 destroyed the keeper’s residence and the surge filled the lighthouse
interior with seawater. The
plucky tower remained in duty for another three decades, but the writing was on
its walls.
To accommodate large freighters, the
Savannah port routed vessels to the deep, more navigable North Channel.
Effective June 1, 1909, the beacon light was snuffed. Its Fresnel light is long
gone.
Today, an overlook trail offers Pulaski
visitors the closest look at the lighthouse.
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Stairs lack safety rail in lighthouse (NPS photo) |
Taking it for granted
Nature’s
assault on the lighthouse has continued, with officials fighting back against
the effects of erosion and shipworms on wooden support timbers.
In 2008, the Georgia Trust for Historic Preservation put the lighthouse on its annual
list of 10 "Places in Peril."
Cadoff said
short-term needs include work on
the exterior envelope, floor surface, stair, interior wall cleaning, repointing,
and all other metal and wood work conservation. Ferrelle, of the nonprofit friends
group, said he expects a new, secure door will be placed in the structure. The
interior stairway has no railing, another reason officials have been concerned
about safety.
Concerns about erosion extend to the wharf area north of the fort itself. A recent project brought in tons of dredged sand.
Savannah
Technical College is helping in the latest lighthouse effort, and the Savannah Community
Foundation assists the friends group in fund-raising.
The friends
group has been in existence officially since 2008. Ferrelle, a lifelong
Savannah resident, said it became apparent the Cockspur Island Lighthouse
needed more than a dash of TLC.
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(NPS photos) |
“It is one of those things you take for granted,” he said. “It
is just part of the scenery. It became a great place to go fishing.”
He said he is concerned about a trend of higher tides that
hammer away at the tower’s foundation. Water comes up over the doorway a couple
of times a year. A better door and sealed bricks will help fight the effects,
he said.
Until deeper federal and private funding is secured, work on
the lighthouse sometimes feels like triage.
“We have to do
maintenance that will keep her in good state while looking out for the long term,”
said Ferrelle.