Ravaged by war, erosion, time and World War II bulldozers, Fort Fisher will celebrate its resilience and new earthworks Saturday with 160th anniversary events

Reproduction 32-pounder was installed this week; note the two guns amid traverses (Fort Fisher SHS)

As a native of Wilmington, N.C., Chris Fonvielle grew up amid sand, surf and history. He recalls climbing all over Fort Fisher, the Civil War sentinel a few miles to the south.

Fonvielle (pronounced fawn-vull) eventually immersed himself in the study of Confederate blockade running, coastal operations and Fort Fisher, thought to be nearly impregnable as the “Gibraltar of the South.” And, as fate would have it, he still walks all around the site -- as an occasional tour guide.

Fonvielle and fellow author Rod Gragg will be among the speakers Saturday at Fort Fisher State Historic Site’s observance of the 160^th anniversary of the bastion’s fall to Union forces, hastening the South’s defeat in the four-year conflict.

"As the guardian of Wilmington -- the sole surviving major seaport in the Confederacy -- Fort Fisher was indispensable to the South, and was a critical lifeline that Northern forces had to sever,” Gragg, author of the seminal “Confederate Goliath: The Battle of Fort Fisher,” told the Picket.

Union forces attempted to take Fort Fisher -- built by enslaved persons on a peninsula between the Cape Fear River and the Atlantic Ocean -- in December 1864, but naval guns failed to reduce artillery positions and the attack was called off. But success came on Jan. 15, 1865, after an effective and sustained bombardment.

“That knocked out all the heavy artillery that otherwise would have devastated the ground troops,” said Fonvielle.

What followed was the largest amphibious assault before World War II. Union troops rolled up defenders, leading to surrender.

The victory cut off blockade runners and the last supply line through Wilmington to Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia. U.S. Colored Troops were among those taking part in the attack. 

The big draw Saturday will be the new 20,000-square-foot visitor center and reconstructed earthworks that opened late last year. Programming includes artillery and infantry weapons demonstrations, guided tours, reenactors and book signings (see schedule below). The Friends of Fort Fisher are sponsoring the event.

The state park whomped up excitement Wednesday by announcing it installed a second reproduction 32-pounder cannon between the newly reconstructed seventh and eighth traverses.

“In the coming months, we will continue fleshing out these new earthworks with ground cover and interior decorations for the bombproof shelter exhibit,” Fort Fisher said in a Facebook post.

The site had closed in April 2024 to allow completion of the visitor center and the recreation of three traverses, bombproofs, a powder magazine and the sally port.

(Trails map modifications showing new traverses/ Dennis Gast)

Fort Fisher’s use during World War II helped the Allied cause but destroyed some of its familiar defensive traverses. They were removed to make way for an airstrip when the area was used for training anti-aircraft and coastal artillery units. Much of the fort was lost to erosion from the shifting Atlantic Ocean.

“It’s been a dream down here to rebuild this segment of earthworks since the 1960s. We finally did it,” Fort Fisher site manager Jim Steele told McClatchy News.

He spoke to the news service about the Southern effort to create the immense sand fort.

Building and repairing went on nonstop during the four-year war, which required the enslaved laborers to rotate through for weeks or months at a time, Steele said.

Montage of Timothy O'Sullivan photos of traverses; click to enlarge (Library of Congress)

The three new traverses, as with the original six, were the scenes of heavy, close-quarters combat as Union troops pushed east on Jan. 15,1865.

Chad Jefferds, Fort Fisher’s assistant site manager, said Saturday's weapons demonstrations will occur at Shepherd’s Battery, which guarded the western end of the Rebel defenses.

“We will be conducting both infantry and artillery demonstrations during the weapons demos at Shepherd’s Battery,” he told the Picket. “The infantry will show how units maneuvered in the field and fire blank rounds from reproduction muskets (mostly Springfields or Enfields), while artillery will show the process of loading and firing along with how each cannon crew member functioned. We currently anticipate having a 10-pounder Parrott rifle, along with the site’s 12-pounder Napoleon and 32-pounder firing blank charges.”

Admission to the site and programming is free, with the exception of $10 to take part in an “Above the Scenes” tour. Site historian Ray Flowers leads the walk, which delves deep into the experiences of those who lived, labored and fought at Fort Fisher, and gives visitors the rare opportunity to climb the fort’s earthen mounds.

Reenactors will be in an interpretive camp in Fort Grove, said Jefferds.

Books by Fonvielle (right), a retired educator, include “The Wilmington Campaign: Last Rays of Departing Hope” and “Fort Fisher 1865: The Photographs of T.H. O’Sullivan.”

He and co-author Bob Browning will discuss their new “Fort Fisher Illustrated: Art of the Battle.”

The paperback features lithographs, engravings, drawings and other dramatic illustrations made after the battle.

 “People knew because of the media coverage how important Wilmington was,” said Fonvielle.

Here is the current schedule for Saturday:

10 a.m.: Weapons demonstration at Shepherd’s Battery

10:45 a.m.: Presentation and book signing by Chris Fonvielle and Bob Browning, “Fort Fisher: Art of the Battle” (Orientation Theatre)

11 a.m.: “Above the Scenes” guided tour, leaving from main entrance breezeway.

Noon: Weapons demonstration at Shepherd’s Battery

12:45 p.m.: Presentation and book signing by Rod Gragg (left), “Cold Steel and the Butt of a Gun: The Fall of Fort Fisher” (Orientation Theatre).

"Commemorative events such as the 160th anniversary of the battle of Fort Fisher help us to remember our history and to learn from those who came before us," said Gragg.

1 pm.: “Above the Scenes” guided tour, leaving from main entrance breezeway.

2 p.m.: Weapons demonstration at Shepherd’s Battery

2:45 p.m.: Presentation and book signing by Angela Zombek, “Suspicious Characters and Captured Combatants: The Experiences of Prisoners of War” (Orientation Theatre)

3 p.m.: “Above the Scenes” guided tour, leaving from main entrance breezeway

4 p.m.: Weapons demonstration at Shepherd’s Battery

The site will be open Saturday from 9 a.m.-5 p.m., with public program being held between 10 a.m.-4 p.m. The visitor center is located at 1610 S. Fort Fisher Blvd. in Kure Beach. With an expected large crowd, the site recommends carpooling. Limited extra parking will be available at Battle Acre Road. Tickets for the “Above the Scenes” guided tour can be purchased at the first-floor information desk in the visitor center. Concessions will be provided by the Federal Point History Center.

Below: One of the reproduction 32-pounders points to the visitor center to its north (FFHS photo)

"Fighting Joe" Wheeler slept here in Newnan, Ga., after likely his finest day in uniform -- at Brown's Mill. The cavalry clash anniversary will be marked Saturday

Wheeler, fought at Brown's Mill, lower right) and stayed at Buena Vista (Picket photos and Library of Congress) 

Twenty-four hours of hard riding while chasing a large Union cavalry force paid off for Confederate Maj. Gen. Joseph Wheeler and his outnumbered troops on July 30, 1864, when they routed the Yanks at Brown’s Mill, a few miles outside Newnan, Ga.

After the battle, “Fighting Joe” – wearing a blacked plume hat, gray uniform and red sash, according to observers – tiredly rode back to Newnan and Buena Vista. He walked up the stairs at the home of Confederate officer Hugh Buchanan, a future congressman who was in Virginia with Phillips' Legion and recovering from a combat wound to his lung.

Wheeler's men were still in pursuit of the remnants of the Federal command, but the cavalry leader, just 27 years old, needed time to regroup.

Wheeler, according to legend, asked to use the home as his headquarters. Buchanan’s wife, who had hidden their children in the cellar during the day, happily obliged upon realizing there weren't Union troops outside. Mary Buchanan offered Wheeler and staff food and use of the dwelling.

“Shown to the study, Wheeler sat down behind a big plantation desk, spread his maps before him, and fell asleep,” historian David Evans wrote in his seminal “Sherman’s Horsemen: Union Cavalry Operations in the Atlanta Campaign.”

One of about a half dozen interpretive markers at Brown's Mill (Picket photo)

There was no real rest for the weary. Wheeler was back in the saddle the next day, and pressed his officers about the successes and failures of the pursuit as Union survivors tried to get back to safety near Atlanta.

Charlie Crawford, president emeritus of the Georgia Battlefields Association, said the Battle of Brown’s Mill was probably Wheeler’s best day in Confederate uniform, although the soldier is also recognized for his service at Shiloh and Perryville by protecting the Rebel army's rear guard during its retreat.

If Nathan Bedford Forrest was the “The Wizard of the Saddle,” perhaps Wheeler should be dubbed the “Prince of Pursuit.”

Some 160 years after the clash, the Brown’s Mill Battlefield Association will host a public commemorative gathering at 7 p.m. Saturday at the site. The Coweta County park is just a few miles from picturesque Newnan, which was home to a half dozen Confederate hospitals during the Civil War.

“As for General Wheeler, I think his relentless pursuit of McCook's Raid was nothing short of remarkable,” Evans has written. “Outnumbered, outgunned, and hopelessly outdistanced, he rode down, routed, and scattered what he called ‘the most stupendous cavalry operation of the war.’”

Union Maj. Gen. William Sherman had tasked Brig. Gen .Edward McCook (left) and Maj. Gen. George Stoneman with cutting vital railroads south of Atlanta so that he would not have to engage in a prolonged siege of Atlanta. McCook, after damaging some track at Lovejoy Station, hoped to rendezvous with Stoneman. He had nearly 3,000 men under his command.

But Stoneman had chosen to ride toward Macon, with the hope of reaching the large Confederate prison at Andersonville to the south. 

With no rendezvous, McCook hurried toward the Chattahoochee River and Federal lines to the north. Early the morning of July 30, after skirmishes at Line Creek and Shake Rag, troopers of the 8^th Indiana rode into Newnan. They were surprised to find dismounted Confederate cavalry at the railroad depot. McCook decided to avoid battle and continue his push for the river.

Wheeler chased them from Newnan.

“O, how joyfully we hailed them,” Confederate nurse Kate Cumming wrote in her diary. “They came galloping in by two different roads; the enemy in the meantime hearing of their approach, were retreating.”

Children attempted to follow the Union troopers, but were told to go home.

The park opened about a decade ago after a community campaign (Civil War Picket photo)

The Rebels ambushed the exhausted Federal forces at Brown's Mill. “This is where McCook lost control and was broken up,” said Crawford.

McCook held a brief council of war, suggesting the force surrender. Other officers decided to fight and McCook basically gave up command. It was every man for himself then, with separate columns attempting to break out from the trap.

Men fled toward the river and more than 1,200 men were taken prisoner over the new few days. Some men, including an officer who was naked, except for his hat, managed to swim or take a few ferries to safety. McCook got away.

Wheeler's force of about 1,400 riders also freed about 500 Confederate prisoners and seized supplies. It was a bloody debacle, in which there was saber-to-saber fighting, a trail of bodies and the heroic actions of a Union trooper who received the Medal of Honor. About 100 Federal men were killed or wounded, while Confederate casualties were about half that.

A day later, Stoneman was defeated and captured at the Battle of Sunshine Creek.

Painting at Newnan depot shows moment Union troops arrived (Picket photo)

Evans based his brief account of Wheeler’s stay on a 1952 book, “White Columns in Georgia,” Medora Field Perkerson’s account of antebellum residences.

After the McCook defeat, Sherman wrote to generals in Washington, DC:

“August 1, 1864 … Colonel Brownlow reports from Marietta that he has just reached there, having escaped from a disaster that overtook General McCook’s cavalry expedition at Newnan.” He expressed surprise such a large Federal force would be defeated and so many captured.

Wheeler, Perkerson wrote, brought the disaster referred to by Sherman.

The Newnan-County Historical Society's book "Coweta Chronicles" includes Wheeler's official report on Brown's Mill. He wrote of catching up with many of the dismounted Federals about three and half miles south of Newnan. "I determined to attack immediately, notwithstanding the great disparity of numbers."

Buena Vista was built in about 1830. (Civil War Picket photo)

Hugh Buchanan’s son, Edward, was 12 when the Confederates came to Buena Vista after the fight. The boy, who lived to nearly 84, never forgot the excitement. Called Eddie at the time, he tiptoed downstairs in the evening and found Wheeler asleep at the desk, according to a family letter kept by the historical society.

“All over Georgia they remembered Wheeler … a man small in stature but a fine leader and fighter, fine enough for the United States Army to make him a major general in the Spanish American War,” wrote Perkerson.

The house, built in 1830, gained its Greek Revival style when Buchanan added a second floor, according to the Newnan-Coweta History Center. Buchanan and a son bottled a medicine called "Horn of Salvation" at the residence. The attic was said to hold government records before the courthouse was built. An older building was used as slave quarters, according to a 1986 tour of homes.

The home was full of period furnishings and hand-crafted walls and mantels, according to the tour guide.

The seven-fireplace home, fronted by Doric columns, is owned now by Michael and Leah Sumner, who purchased it in 1990. The home did take a hit in a 2021 tornado that caused widespread damage in the area.

Old post card of Buena Vista (Newnan-Coweta Historical Society)

Loran Smith, a columnist and announcer associated with the Georgia Bulldogs football team, paid a visit a year ago and Leah Sumner told him the residence is on the highest ground in Newnan, giving Wheeler an excellent view of the area. Hence, the name Buena Vista, or beautiful view.

“We cherish the opportunity to live in and raise our family in such a special home,” she told the Picket in a recent email.

The area around the Brown's Mill battlefield used to be largely rural but, like most of the Atlanta region, that has changed.

“The farms over which the battle was fought have been subdivided and farmhouses that were present then no longer exist,” said Sandra Parker of the friends group.

Carolyn Turner, head of the battlefield association, said the desk where Wheeler fell asleep is believed to have been lost.

Brown’s Mill, she said, has been added to the National Register of Historic Places (above). “We are very proud of that.”

Bicyclists, hikers, runners and history enthusiasts use the park. Signs provide details on the Atlanta Campaign, the battle and personal accounts by and about soldiers, Turner said.

Evans told the Picket the Confederate cavalry victory at Brown’s Mill, one of few during the Atlanta Campaign, was the result of sheer force of will.

“Outnumbered more than 3 to 1, over the course of fifty-five miles and twenty-four hours, Wheeler and his men killed, wounded, or captured more than 1,300 Yankee cavalrymen, almost half of McCook's entire force. “

The Union defeat at Brown’s Mill forced Sherman to change tactics and besiege Atlanta and use infantry at Jonesboro, Evans wrote in “Sherman’s Horsemen.”

While Southern newspapers lauded his triumph, Wheeler was not without his critics. Cumming, the nurse in one of the Confederate military hospitals in Newnan, noted she heard "many complaints against General Wheeler."

Evans said among the critics was Capt. George Knox Miller of the 8^th Confederate Cavalry, who wrote to his wife, "Our forces were handled miserably . . . . If we had a commanding officer with any brains not one of them [McCook's raiders] would have escaped."

"Oh! for a few more Forrests and Whartons to command our cavalry," added Chaplain Robert F. Bunting of the 8^th Texas Cavalry.

“Just goes to show, you can't please all the people all the time, no matter what you do,” quipped Evans.

The anniversary “Toast and Taps” will occur 7 p.m. Saturday (July 27) at the Brown’s Mill battlefield, 155 Millard Farmer Road, Newnan, Ga. 30263. The battlefield association, said Carolyn Turner, will read the names of all who died on the property, salute them and play Taps and sing “Dixie.”