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Varina plantation home, cannonballs in wall and Benjamin Butler (Henrico Co. and Library of Congress) |
Bald eagles,
ducks and geese routinely take flight near a weathered two-story brick home
that sits on a sloping hill southeast of Richmond. The dwelling has a circle
driveway on one side and a view of the James River on the other. Fields that
have been tilled for generations lie just to the north and west.
For all its
bucolic setting, Varina Farms, or Varina on the James, has another facet: history
as deep and rich as the soil. The former plantation is considered the
birthplace of Henrico County, which curves around Richmond and is home to
340,000 residents.
In the early
1600s, English settler John Rolfe, husband of indigenous Princess Pocahontas,
discovered the soil and climate at the site were suited for growing mild tobacco, with the
name Varina linked to a form of Spanish tobacco.
The Civil War
came to Varina Farms about 250 years later, and the property was a scene of combat,
prisoner exchanges and the headquarters of Union Maj. Gen. Benjamin Butler. Confederate
cannonballs struck the 1853 Classic Revival home, and there are signs of those today.
At one point, Butler built a pontoon bridge to carry his men and supplies
across the river to attack Richmond in 1864.
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Property fronts the James River, 10 miles south of Richmond (Henrico County map) |
With land
preservation and public use in mind, Henrico County leaders recently purchased the property from the Stoneman family, which had been its guardian since the early
1900s. The total for two purchases, which includes the battle-scarred 1853
Classic Revival home, came to about $18.5 million. Interstate 295 slices through
the farm.
“By acquiring this beautiful, vast and irreplaceable property, Henrico
County is making a once-in-a-lifetime move to ensure that our history as a
county, a commonwealth and a nation are preserved and that our precious, scenic
riverfront will remain protected and accessible for generations to come,” said
Board of Supervisors Chairman Tyrone E. Nelson.
County has ideas for site, but wants input from citizens
County
officials will now begin the process of determining future use for the farm,
known as Aiken’s Landing during the Civil War.
The
possibilities are as broad as the view of the river, says Julian Charity,
division director for history, heritage and natural resources in the county
park system.
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The home has not been occupied for at least a decade (Henrico County photo) |
“We have a
number of ideas, but we’re also interested in what the public would like to see
out there,” Charity told the Picket in an email.
The
possibilities include:
-- Archaeology across the site, including colonial days;
-- Restoration
of the house and interpretation of each lower-floor room for different aspects
of the plantation’s history;
-- A new
Civil War museum, riverboat historic tours and archaeological excavations of
the original Varina site;
-- A commemorative
site for the enslaved persons who worked the fields and house for about 250
years. The family of Albert Aiken owned about 60 enslaved people on the eve of
the Civil War, according to Charity. Officials have begun compiling a listing
of known names;
-- A Native
American interpretive site
-- Wetlands
restoration with the James River Association, pollinator gardens and
agriculture classes for county schools.
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View of home from "land" side, just past farmland (Henrico County photo). |
County
officials said any opening of the property is at least a year away. There are
no facilities available to the public at this time and there are no restrooms.
Marc Wagner, senior architectural historian for the state Department of Historic Resources, said the agency has advised the county on
possible archaeology and how to interpret the dwelling. “We are hoping the
county will invite us back out.”
A lot more of Varina's history lies below the surface
The Department
of Historic Resources champions preservation statewide and has an online database of sites. It is familiar with Varina Farms and is standing by to
assist Henrico County, said Mike Clem, the department’s eastern regional
archaeologist.
According to
Charity, archaeology surveys done in the 1970s and 1996 were all surface
observations and collection.
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(Marc Wagner, Va. Department of Historic Resources) |
“One of the
first things we would like to do is archaeology,” Charity said. “We are
intending to pinpoint the locations of the early buildings (courthouse, glebe,
parish, ordinary, etc.), Butler’s wharves, enslaved cabin sites, and anything
listed in the vast histories.” This goes back to the early colonial period.
He says the
site has been picked over during the years, so many historic items are no
longer available.
“As
archaeology is performed, we fully expect to recover hundreds of artifacts
pertaining to the Civil War,” Charity said.
Plantation was a busy crossroads, troops site
Not long into
the Civil War, Richmond became a prime objective for the Union army, and dozens
of battles and skirmishes took place in Henrico and nearby counties.
Varina on the
James served as an eastern depot for the August 1862 exchange of about 6,000 prisoners,
according to a history in the state’s archives. A brick barn – about 400 yards
from the home – briefly held Union prisoners
during the war. The barn was near a wharf used for the exchanges. (Some
histories say the plantation was home to the first cotton mill in the South.)
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Federal bridge crosses James River at Varina Landing (Library of Congress) |
The farm was also
used as a major crossing point for Union troops, according to the county.
In November 1863, the controversial Butler received command
of the Department of Virginia and North Carolina, and the following May was in
the field again, this time at the head of the new Army of the James.
His army spent months southeast of heavily defended Richmond, unsuccessful in
making significant gains, though he notched a victory at New Market Heights,
northwest of Varina, in September 1864. Fourteen
members of the U.S. Colored Troops were awarded the Medal of Honor for their
valor.
Butler used Varina
for his headquarters during part of 1864. According to one history, the general
rode one day to inspect his camps.
“As he passed
some ditches which he thought were filled with his own men, the Rebels fired
upon him. They had reclaimed the land. Butler outran the Rebels and made it
safely to the fort where he met Grant.”
Home was struck by Rebel cannonballs
The history
says Butler built a log cabin for his headquarters near the home and used it until war’s end, having failed in his assault on Petersburg and being driven
back by Confederate troops.
“The dwelling still shows the damage by cannon
balls, fired by the Confederate batteries, from the Chesterfield side near
Dutch Gap,” according to a 1937 report on the plantation. (Photo of damaged area, Henrico County)
The brick west
wall of the home today is pocked with small craters made by the artillery
rounds.
Wagner said: “You
can tell the cannon balls are cemented into the damaged brick. On site we
wondered if that was done for effect by later owners. Would the cannon
fire have hit the wall and lodged in or just bounced out -- possibly both
happened?”
Charity says
officials believe the round shots in the wall replaced original cannonballs
removed in the 1960s.
“We do not believe that the cannonballs are modern, but we believe
that they are replacements. More than likely, leftover cannonballs found on the
property from Butler’s time there,” he said.
The Union
pontoon bridge was later removed, but different references mention remnants
still on or in the James River, according to Charity.
None of the
other buildings of the time, other than the 1853 home and its kitchen outbuilding,
along with remnants of the barn, are still standing, said Charity.
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Cannonballs in the west wall (Marc Wagner (Va. Dept. of Historic Resources) |
Home was modernized, but still has original elements
For fans of
antebellum homes, the Aiken home just about has it all.
The interior
has a variety of decorative elements, according to a 1976 nomination form for
the home’s placement on the National Register of Historic Places.
The form says
of the dwelling:
“The dwelling
house is a two-story, common-bond brick structure connected by a long hyphen to
a kitchen at the east and was built in 1853. It is five bays long with
six-over-six sash and white wooden sills and lintels, except on the ground
story of the river front where all of the window openings have French doors set
into them. A one-story, decastyle Ionic porch, rebuilt after a 1941 tornado,
stretches the length of the river front and is returned halfway along the west
end. A one-story tetrastyle Ionic portico shelters the land front. “
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Civil War photo shows flat roof, renovations included taller chimneys (Va. Dept. of Historic Resources) |
The home is
showing its age, though county officials say the Stonemans did a good job
maintaining it and the property. No one has
lived in the house for at least 10 years, and the electrical has not been
updated since the 1970s.
“We have some
work to do, but I’ve definitely seen structures in far worse condition,” said
Charity.
Wagner with
the state DHR said the house was
updated in the early 20th century so the interior reflects a
lot of that period. “The roof blew off the house during a tornado at one
point so the whole roof area was rebuilt.”
He said the house appears to have undergone a substantial
remodeling a little more than a 100 years ago.
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One of the rooms at the old Varina home (Marc Wagner, Va. Dept. of Historic Resources) |
“This was the
period when farms got upgraded all over Virginia. Farming became more
prosperous operations with the growth of cities, RR (railroads) and improved
scientific farming methods -- and the owners would often upgrade these old
plantations with modern bathrooms and kitchens.”
Parts of
Varina’s main house interior date back to the 1850s, especially the room plan
and central hall circulation. All of the brickwork, and some of the
exterior trim is from the 1850s. The porches have been rebuilt over time in the
same 1850s Greek Revival style, Wagner said.
“The kitchen
interior is all modern,” he told the Picket. “It likely housed 5-10 enslaved
persons (a guess) and had a large cooking space. It is rare to find the
covered connected kitchen to house structure, original to the design -- the
only one left in Henrico that is pre-1860. You can see in later years that
a new entrance was added to the kitchen and the small upstairs window. The
new entrance on the kitchen signals a difference use of the kitchen building,
as just residential space.”
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(Marc Wagner, Virginia Dept. of HIstoric Resources) |
Charity said the county plans to move forward on preservation
talks and work soon.
“We’ve gone through the
general assessment phase where we’ve identified priorities (electrical,
windows, plumbing, etc.), now we are in the contractor estimation phase. We have a number of contractors under contract (due to the other historic
properties we manage), and are getting more information on exactly how to
proceed.” (Aerial view of Varina, below, Henrico County)
Henrico
County owns other Civil War-related properties, including portions of Malvern
Hill, New Market Heights, Deep Bottom and Savage’s Station battlefields.It is
working with a consortium of groups and governments to build a bike/walking trail through the New Market Heights
property to a Civil War site and one to Four Mile Creek, from the Revolutionary War.
The New Market Heights site has been master planned for a large passive park site, but
it has not yet come to fruition.